Inky Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 once you start construction proper we'll need a dedicated progress thread with lots of pictures.
Krosigrim Posted September 28, 2009 Author Posted September 28, 2009 Oh yes I intend to! I just bought a used wired controller from Game Stop. Apparently Microsoft no longer makes them so all you will likely find new is 3rd party. I wanted the original controller because of the Guide button... I am mounting that bitch right on the stick. The 3rd party version looks like shit. I may also be replacing the LED to blue... yes blue. Im wondering how itll look in person as the plastic is greenish. But I've seen the pics. Blue to match the cushion and buttons.
Krosigrim Posted October 7, 2009 Author Posted October 7, 2009 did you get those parts you ordered? we need updates.Well I got those adjustable microswitches. I was talking to Sean at Lizardlick.com about them and sent him a pic. Pic of a switch I got after I adjusted the set screw.He opened up the microswitches that come with Happ and told me it looks the exact same but with a set screw. He was wondering if all they did was drill a hole and put a screw in! They arent silent, but much quieter in this state. When I first adjusted it to silent, I opened it up and found it was forced to N.O. " normally open", so that was too far. Anyway, at a fair adjustment like the one shown, instead of a "CLICK" it's more of a "tak" Well now that I see there is nothing special about the switch itself, but rather something stopping the N.C. "normally closed" path from connecting (less force needed to make connection with the NO as the magnet on arm isnt on the NC at rest) I can now modify my own microswitches. Of course my modification will be better... There is no need for adjustable functionality, you see, the set screw is on a spring bar and that thing will likely "wear in" so I'll likely need to adjust them again once that happens... I'll post more on my superior modification some other time. My other parts will arrive in a day or two, and I have made 1 mock up for preliminary design. ~ 20" X 11 1/2" X 2 3/4" ( ~50.8 cm X 29.2 cm X 7 cm )As you can see I want to go with a 45 degree (or there abouts) on the wrist corners. I already have a basic construction idea, I'm not up on terminology... Im cutting the edges at an angle.then sanding t a slight curve of course...When I say edges, Im referring to the side boards at the top. They are just gonna pass the face board so that it makes an inlay, so I can place the plexy or whatever material Im gonna use, and make it flush with the edges.This is what I had drawn up first And this is where I am now. It's designed to sit in my lap with my wrists comfortably resting on it. I made sure and I have plenty of space vertically for my parts. I still fully intend to make a cushion for the bottom, but I think I'll make it removable. Heres a pic of the material in the sunlight. This shit looks amazing!I was also thinking of making a backdrop for under the plexy with the material too. I can always print up anything and change it if I so desire, but I want to see how this will look under the plexy and button face. Well thats a bit of everything. Once I tighten up the design, and get things moveing, I'll make a new thread but until then, I wish for feedback in this thread. No one but Inky and Shibathe has really said anything about joysticks. So, what do you think of mine so far... that is, what I have disclosed... heh. And what do you like/dislike about whatever stick that... sticks out to you.
Inky Posted October 7, 2009 Posted October 7, 2009 This is what I had drawn up first And this is where I am now.are you sure you want the buttons angled that steep? looks like a wrist breaker. the first angle looks better.what about this? besides moving the angle I moved the button array and stick up higher onto the panel. more material lower will help support your hands and wrists.
Krosigrim Posted October 7, 2009 Author Posted October 7, 2009 1emu got hardcore,Fuck yea! So Inky... Funny thing is what you drew is close to what I actually have. Yes the angle I drew there is quite steep, I for some reason, drew a 45 degree, when I want somewhere around 30 degrees. What you drew was too much. I want the buttons to be at the angle that my hand lays. Its somewhere between both our pictures. As for the stick... that was just me doing the pic real fast. My box is actually closer to what you drew than mine. I gotta run so thats why Im not fixing the pic. Thanks for the consideration though! And yes... back and start are going somewhere over there.
emsley Posted October 7, 2009 Posted October 7, 2009 soz! Just a little tipsy made sense at the time.
Krosigrim Posted October 8, 2009 Author Posted October 8, 2009 Ok... got my parts in. First hurtle to clear is mounting, then design. Working it out now but I'll have a bead on it soon enough.
2eyez Posted October 11, 2009 Posted October 11, 2009 I like the american 6 buttion layout but then again I have never tried the Japanese version. I'm thinking about buying a Mad Catz TE Fightstick. The only thing that bugs me is the JLF Ball and shaft, I prefer a JLW-W Bat.
Inky Posted October 11, 2009 Posted October 11, 2009 you can switch out to a bat top. that what I have. you can also switch out the shaft spring to a JLW for a tighter feel.
Krosigrim Posted October 11, 2009 Author Posted October 11, 2009 I like the american 6 buttion layout but then again I have never tried the Japanese version. I'm thinking about buying a Mad Catz TE Fightstick. The only thing that bugs me is the JLF Ball and shaft, I prefer a JLW-W Bat.Like Inky said you can swap it out. But it looks like you'll need an AdaptorLizardlick.com$ 5.45 here for both together before shipping costs. I don't want a bat, I like the smaller profile of the nob. Well anyway, I've been working on the mounting for the case. I've ironed most of it out, so now I gotta decide on the face button placement.Now here Im off-setting the last 2 buttons, as with the slant it puts those last buttons just out of comfortable range. So no straight 6. And I had 2 left over buttons... They aren't typically used anyway... cheat buttons. But with a config like this, they are in range of my thumbs. Soul Caliber is what I had in mind, I can put the guard down there. I only needed 1 button there for that and I couldn't think of where to put the other button. If both buttons are there, I can set them as the support buttons in MVC2, thats just me trying to come up with something useful... as I am still uncertain about the configuration of my button placements. I'll carve up another box lid and see how this works. What do you guys think?
Inky Posted October 11, 2009 Posted October 11, 2009 I think you know what I think by now straight 6 and leave the cheater buttons off your layout seems like an interesting way to do it though.
Krosigrim Posted October 11, 2009 Author Posted October 11, 2009 Well the slant is much much more comfortable, as thats the angle my hands lay. The offset works as with this slant the last 2 are juuuust out of perfect placement. I can hit the buttons quite well with my wrist resting under the buttons... so it seems like it'll work. I havent carved up a box yet. The extra buttons at the thumbs would be absolutely perfect for Soul Caliber... Im not sold on this... it's just another idea... lemme get to it, and ill see how it works. EDIT:I spread my fingers so you can see the angle of the 6 main buttonsI like it but it doesnt feel just right. perhaps I'll tweak this premise a bit, but I'll try to think of a few different ideas. I's like to have 1 button for the thumb at least... but where the hell would I put the other button? Having them next to each other is logical... why have a random button somewhere... and as for just having 7 buttons instead of 8... Hmmm
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