Kloplop321

The PSP requires exactly 5 volts "Supplied voltage by a host or a powered hub ports is between 4.75 V and 5.25 V" kinda saying that on average it will be 5 volts, and if the PSP is requesting or "tugging" for 5 volts, that is the exact it will get. I know some stuff on electricity ohh, if you are talking about the meter, it is on 20 volt check

Well, I was bored, I saw one selling on the Net, so I decided to make my own since it didn't seem like there was a fuse or a box between the USB jack and the DC IN jack, well I just used some simple electronic tools that were in a Tide Washing detergent box that has a bunch of random stuff in it. I found the right size of a DC IN jack from a 6 volt adapter that hasn't been used for like 5 years so I cut the end off(gave it plenty of its own wire in case of accidents up to like 100 or so.) and I had a bunch of USB cords in a drawer in the basement with a bunch of extra stuff that never got used. So that's how it all came together. I used some tube things that you combine wires safely and I also used a small bit of generic Wire to test the polarity(the pins from the Voltage Meter couldn't fit in) of it before sticking it in, as it would mess it up bad(or so I think). The PSP uses 5 Volts, a USB hub gives off generally ~5 volts, at peak(for me) 5.23. Electricity is smart because it only sends what it needs, you can't force electricity where it can't go somewhere, that way, it lowers down to 5 volts to fulfill the requirement. Here are some pics for those that are interested in what it looked like. Ohh, and did I mention it works with the Wii!?(Ironic isn't it )(its just power so no data is actually being sent back and forth) Don't mind the game, its only showing that it works while charging and this isn't some funky edited thingy Red wire is power, Black is Ground. Here is some more info on that stuff so click here for it. If you EVER attempt this, TEST THE POLARITY! very important to know, or else you might regret it.

as in there is nothing wrong with the actual screen or buttons or anything like that.. Just the plastic on the top is cracked in many places, so where can I get a new one?(all I can find is the stupid skins that you put on with the sticky stuff on it.) links help

darn it... I thought I found it first(since it says the 19th when it was the 18th)

check out http://www.macherman.nl/mach/content/view/92354/65/ iPhone NES v0.31: iPhone NES emulator Geschreven door dennis 19-08-2007 A brand new version of the iPhone Nintendo Entertainment System emulator for Apple iPhone is now available. As usual coded by the talented stepwhite and nervegas, this iPhone NES version includes the following changes: # 0.22 stepwhite Added diagonal direction hotspots, SHOW_HITSPOT flags # 0.23 nervegas Tweaks to orientation change, DEBUG shows hot spots now # 0.24 nervegas Using K6502_rw.h from older core, Metroid and Punchout work! Made more improvements to orientation sensitivity. Implemented slightly faster rendering # 0.25 nervegas Enlarged controls for landscape mode # 0.26 nervegas Change status bar background to black on landscape # 0.27 nervegas Controller fix to allow button, then directional pad hold # 0.28 nervegas Added save SRAM support (to save SRAM for games like Zelda) # 0.29 nervegas Added auto-save state and “Saved Games” selection # 0.30 nervegas Fixed SaveState for many games, +Mapper1 +Mapper5. This fixed Tetris, Bubble Bobble, Super Mario 2, others… # 0.31 nervegas Fixed SaveState for Mapper4 games (Earth Bound Zero, etc) Those that have a pevious version of the iPhone NES emulator should really consider downloading v0.31 in order to benefit from the new important features that were introduced. Direct Download: - iPhone NES Emulator v0.31 (155KB) by stepwhite and nervegas - Readme - Changelog

I was wondering if they fixed the audio problem in San Fransisco Rush 2049. The sound is very choppy and after like 2 minutes it just cuts out forever..

Systems that run software or games they weren't originally meant to be played on means it needs live conversion, so you are playing it, while it is synthesizing the music(if it does), playing sounds, developing graphics, taking your inputs, running the code according to the events within the game and your input, while converting a Live feed of binary data That is my thought but I may be off somewhere

I got the needed files, as in the vMac Rom, however durring the conversion process, ds.gba will not work with my R4, Anybody else got a way to fix this

Nintendo are being idiots because they don't notice that some people only buy their DS for homebrew, and making code against it just seems mentally insane because it truely IS not worth their time, they don't make more money that way!

I just want to know if Dualis can run MoonShell, because I just wish to make a bunch of themes, and test the settings that comes along with them. It crashes for me.. it doesn't pause or just sit there, but literally crashes, my Visual Studio Debug thing pops up whenever an application crashes, and this crashed. thanks.

I do not think I did wash my hands. Which I didn't either with my SP but it works perfectly and I touched the main parts of the board(it was disposable if broke anyway) I didn't on my DS(touch the circuits or direct connections) Hopefully, if something was fried it was just a simple resistor that can be replaced. (forgot his name, has the red cyborg as Avatar) will fix it for free for me, I just have to pay for shipping, I just need to get the right packaging supplies.

everything is as seems from the pictures I took of before(printed out) I am sure I didn't knock anything off, because I only touched the screws and edges to take it out of the shell. Remember this is a different model and the models after that(about 4-6 months after launch) doesn't have this dumb design of wires(I have noticed from other DS's) I think they replaced the model because of tests shown of the parts crumbling in the DS, so they changed it, but I got the old model.

I don't see how, when I did the same with my SP and it works better(Junk in the R button) I even handled the DS with more care and concern when opening it. It seems as though the power just isn't going to the screens. You can buy replacement screens, from some places(online) but I would like a quide on replacing the screen(just to see if I did something wrong)

I already have, and Mooney suggested this location for asking.

I do, But I would like my First Ds to work also.

to put it simple I wanted to paint my DS golden, so I took it apart and disassembled it, and put it in a static resistant bag, like what you would get a graphics card in. Then, after the spray paint dried, I rebuilt it as it was, But just some information first, I did the top first as a test, to see if it would work, The top screen didn't work afterwards, but the bottom on did, but the boot up test automatically stopped it and shut back down. The bottom screen turned white, and the speakers clicked(like always). Now, both screens do not turn on, but do click.(after I painted the bottom) It has to be a connection or something. here is some pictures, Sorry if blurry, my camera was dying and it isn't good at close up pics, but there is one good one. I took out the flat batch cords so you could see that the brown thing that keeps in the batch cord (4 ends) has crumbled away, however, my electric tape works on it and it doesn't come out there. Could anybody help me diagnose the problem?